Exploring Kumrat, Jahaz Banda and Katora Lake

Nature is Magical, it has this wonderful capacity to inspire you, and instill life in your soul. Beautiful landscapes, fresh air, fragrance of trees and flowers and sound of a raging river are some of the things I seek refuge in. I often follow the less trodden paths in the mountains begging the mother nature to instill some magic in me and enlighten my soul. Every place I have visited has something unique, something peculiar to itself that helps it register a permanent spot in my memories. Among the places in Pakistan’s stunning North, you will often hear about some wonderful meadow, a gorgeous pine forest, or a stunningly beautiful lake. Seldom will you find all these together though. Kumrat valley, located in Dir District of KPK is one such stunningly beautiful place where you can witness all of these together. Raging waters of Panjkora River, thick pine forest that surrounds the river, the steep trek in a thick pine Forest that takes you to a stunningly beautiful meadow Jahaz Banda and lastly, the amazing marvel of Nature Katora Lake. All of these come together and make Kumrat one special place to visit.

As with most journeys up north, this one too begins from Islamabad. Take the Motorway M1 and then take the newly built Swat Expressway all the way up to Chakdara from where you will follow Chitral road. Timergara will be the next town on the way, and it is advisable to fill up your car tank at Timergara for variety of reasons. Another 2-3 hours and you will reach upper Dir. Just before entering the town, take Kumrat road on the right and drive for another 2-3 hours and you will arrive at a crossroad near Masjid Dar-ul Islam. Take a left turn towards Kumrat. The road straight ahead goes to Utror, swat, but is only suitable for 4x4 Vehicles. Drive for another half an hour on Kumrat Valley road and you will enter a stunning Pine forest. There are plenty of staying options now available in Kumrat, however, if you truly want to enjoy nature, bring your own camps and set up your campsite anywhere in the forest next to the river. Panjkora River has plenty of trout in it, so those who love fishing can try their luck.

Apart from the river and the Forest, there is a beautiful waterfall close to the main camping site that you should checkout when visiting Kumrat. Kumrat is a very peaceful place and you could spend a day taking walks in the jungle or simply sitting in your campsite and enjoying the beauty around you. Make sure you keep the day slow and conserve energy as you are going to need a lot of it while hiking for Jahaz Banda.

The next day, you can start your day early, pack the campsite, load it in the car and drive back to Masjid Dar-ul-Islam. From there, take the small side road to Jandrai, a small village. Make sure you have contacted Raja Taj before and informed him about your planned dates. He can come handy when it comes to arranging porters and mules for your luggage. Raja Taj is an interesting and animated personality who has maintained his own little museum in Jandrai, do not forget to check that out.

The hike from Jandrai to Jahaz Banda can take 3-5 hours. It starts within the village on a gentle paved track but as you leave the village and head for the forest, the incline becomes quiet steep. The Forest is so thick that it feels dark even in the day at some places. There is very little water on the trek, so make sure that you fill up your bottles in Jandrai before beginning the hike. Keep some electrolyte handy, as the trek can take a lot of toll on your body. For me, a few Lemons, some table salt and sugar does the job, but you can even use off-the-shelf sachets of Tang or ORS for this purpose. If you use these Sachets, make sure you DO NOT throw away the empty sachets in the Forest. Littering under any circumstances is offensive to nature and must be avoided.

If you start your hike early, you will not be rushed and will give yourself enough time to enjoy the beauty this wonderful forest has to offer. Make sure you reach Jahaz Banda well before the sunset and enjoy the evening there. Once you reach Jahaz Banda, be prepared to be inspired by the exceptional beauty of the Meadow. There is a small condo in Jahaz Banda, owned by Raja Taj that can serve as a Kitchen. He does have some staff there who can even provide you meals at a very reasonable cost, make sure you have informed him about it in advance though. A quiet evening spent in Jahaz Banda after a strenuous hike is as good as it can get. It is a wonderful place to have a bonfire at night and enjoy it with your friends.

Wake up early the next morning and prepare for another awesome hike for the lake. It can take 3-4 hours to get to the lake depending on your speed. Most of the Terrain is rocky and is exposed to sun, as you have left the forest behind you. Make sure you apply your sunscreen to keep your skin safe from sunburns.

Halfway through the hike, you will start seeing the gateway to the lake at the far end. It appears to be just a stone-throw away but stay persistent, as it takes a lot to get there. Finally, when you are at the foot of the gate, waste no time to climb it and you will be rewarded with the stunning beauty of this awesome lake. I have been to many lakes in Pakistan’s north, but this lake stands out. Perhaps, among the top 3 in my all-time list, a must visit for anyone who loves exploring the tranquil lakes in the mountains. The view of the lake and the mountains in its backdrop makes it a sight to behold.

A frozen Katora lake, shot in late April

If you leave early in the morning from Jahaz Banda, you can afford to spend 2-3 hours on the lake and rejoice it’s beauty, before returning to Jahaz Banda and spending another Marvelous evening there. There is a waterfall at a short hike from Jahaz Banda, which you can visit the next morning before returning to Jandrai.

Trip Details:

It is recommended to spare 4 days if you are travelling from Islamabad / Lahore.

Drive:

Islamabad – Chakdara – Dir – Kumrat (5+2+4 = 11 hours)

Trekking: (Trekking level: Mild)

Jandrai to Jahaz Banda: 3-5 hours (depending on your speed and endurance)

Jahaz Banda to Katora Lake: 3-4 hours

Elevation: Jahaz Banda – approx. 3,000 meters, Katora lake- 3,500 meters

Best time to Visit:

Mid June to Mid September

Weather: Mild in Days and cold to extremely cold at nights, so go prepared.

Equipment Required:

· Trekking / Hiking Boots

· Warm Socks

· A warm Jacket

· Hat / Cap

· Sunblock / sunscreen

· Sunshades

· Search light / torch

· Raincoat / rain suit

· Trekking poles

· Camps with rain covers

· Sleeping bags with comfort level temperatures of 0 degrees or lower

· Sleeping mats

· Food

· Gasoline / LPG stove

· Cooking utensils